Sucking

<<watch it, this is a family show>>

And now for something completely different.  Something old, but something that takes me to a happy place when I’m out on a long run.

Taken in early 2005, a return to one of my favorite surf breaks in the world, a place that I first surfed in 1989.

Some of you may know where this is, but I’d ask that you not announce it.  I’ll just say that it’s on a rock in the Pacific Ocean.

Sucking

What made this place so fun?  For a bit of perspective, since it’s missing here, this wave on this day was large enough to stand up inside the barrel.  To the right upper corner of the image, just outside the breaking wave, the water depth is 20-30 meters deep.  Just inside the breaking wave, the water is maybe 1 meter deep.  And it’s nothing but very sharp lava underneath, which let you know if you made a mistake.

You can see the water getting sucked off the reef just ahead of the wave.

But the rush was the speed.  With nothing to slow the wave down until it hit the shelf, the takeoff was extremely fast, often launching you out ahead of the wave.  That’s when you met the lava.  But if you timed it right, you came flying out the end of that barrel with momentum that can’t be described.

Like I said – a happy place.

And I found a similar place in Western Australia.  That just gave me another happy place to think about.

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